Don't mess up the title! One wrong signature can void the document. See the 2026 rules for selling a car in Wisconsin.
The Most Important Piece of Paper
You can have the keys, the car, and the cash. But without the Certificate of Title correctly signed, the deal isn’t done. Wisconsin (WI DOT) is strict. They do not accept crossed-out names, white-out, or scribbles. If you mess up your title, you have to pay $20+ for a replacement and wait weeks.
This guide will ensure you get it right the first time.
Anatomy of a Wisconsin Title
A Wisconsin title is a multi-colored document (often blue/green borders). To sell your car, you are looking for the section on the BACK of the title. It is labeled: “ASSIGNMENT OF VEHICLE TITLE BY OWNER”.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. The Seller Section (Top Block)
This is YOU.
- Date of Sale: Write the current date.
- Sale Price: Write the amount we paid you (e.g., “$450.00”).
- Note: If scrapping, do not write “Gift”. Write the actual scrap price.
- Odometer Reading:
- If the car is Model Year 2011 or Newer: You MUST write the exact mileage.
- If the car is Model Year 2010 or Older: You can write “EXEMPT” (write the word Exempt in the mileage box).
- Seller Signature(s):
- Sign your name exactly as it appears on the front of the title.
- Crucial: If the front says “JOHN SMITH AND JANE DOE”, BOTH people must sign.
- If it says “JOHN SMITH OR JANE DOE”, only one person needs to sign.
- Seller Printed Name: Print your name clearly next to the signature.
2. The Buyer Section (Middle Block)
This is US (or the person you are selling to).
- Buyer Name: Leave this blank until our driver arrives, OR write “{businessInfo.name}”.
- Buyer Address: We will fill this in.
- Buyer Signature: We will sign this.
Common Mistakes (how to avoid ruining your title)
1. The “White-Out” Disaster
NEVER use white-out/correction fluid. If you write the wrong date, do not try to fix it. Do not cross it out.
- The Fix: You must complete a Statement of Intent (Form MV2489) explaining the error. We can provide this form.
2. Signing in the Wrong Spot
Do not sign on the line that says “Lien Release” (unless you are the bank). Do not sign in the “Reassignment by Licensed Dealer” section. Only sign in the “Assignment by Owner” section.
3. The “And/Or” Confusion
Check the front of the title under “Owner(s)”.
- AND: Requires all parties to be present and sign.
- OR: Requires only one party.
- No Conjunction: (Just two names listed vertically). Wisconsin treats this as AND. Both must sign.
What if I Can’t Find the Title?
If you lost it, you have two options:
-
Replacement Title (MV2119):
- Go to the DMV (or online).
- Pay $20.
- Wait 7-10 days for mail, or get it instantly at a full-service DMV center (extra $5 fee).
- Best if selling to a private party.
-
Junk Bill of Sale (No Title Needed):
- IF selling to a licensed junk buyer (Us).
- IF car is 10+ years old.
- We can use your ID + Registration to verify ownership and skip the physical title.
- Best if selling to a junk yard.
Removing the Lien (The Loan)
If the front of your title lists a bank under “Lien Holder”, check if there is a signature or stamp released below it.
- If Released: You are good.
- If Blank: The state thinks you still owe money. You must provide a separate Lien Release Letter from the bank along with the title. Even if you paid it off 10 years ago!
Removing Your Plates
DO NOT give the title with the plates attached. In Wisconsin, plates stay with the seller.
- Remove plates.
- Keep them.
- Go to the Wisconsin DMV Website and file a Sellers Notification.
- This tells the state: “I no longer own this car.”
- It stops you from getting parking tickets or liability if the car is abandoned later.
Summary
- Flip to the back.
- Sign the Seller line.
- Print your name.
- Fill Odometer (if 2011+).
- Hand it to the driver.
That’s it! Cash in hand, problem solved.