Does body damage lower the value? What about engine failure? A deep dive into how we price accident vehicles vs mechanical failures.
Not All “Junk” Is Created Equal
To you, it’s just a broken car. To us, it’s a collection of materials and parts. Understanding the difference between a “scrap” car and a “salvage” car can help you understand your quote.
1. The “Scrap” Baseline (Weight)
If a car is completely end-of-life—rusted out, 20+ years old, nothing works—it is priced based on weight.
- Current Steel Prices: These fluctuate monthly like the stock market.
- Heavier = Better: A Ford Expedition is worth more than a Honda Civic simply because it contains 2,000 lbs more steel.
If your car is categorized as scrap, body damage doesn’t matter. A car crushed like a pancake weighs the same as a car with no dents. If we are just melting it down, we don’t care if the bumper is smashed.
2. The “Salvage” Tier (Parts & Repairables)
If your car is newer (typically 2010+) or a popular model, we try to save it or part it out. This is where damage matters.
Mechanical Damage (Engine/Transmission):
- Scenario: A 2015 Chevrolet Malibu with a blown engine but perfect body.
- Value: Higher than scrap. We can buy it, pull the engine, but sell the doors, hood, trunk, lights, and interior parts to body shops or other owners.
- Verdict: Good money.
Body Damage (Collision):
- Scenario: A 2015 Chevrolet Malibu that runs perfect but was T-boned and totaled.
- Value: Higher than scrap. We pull the engine and transmission (which are good) and sell them.
- Verdict: Good money.
The “Double Whammy”:
- Scenario: A 2002 Malibu that is rusted out AND has a blown engine.
- Value: Pure scrap. Lowest tier.
3. The Aluminum vs. Steel Factor
Some newer vehicles (Ford F-150s, Teslas, high-end Audis) use a lot of Aluminum.
- Aluminum is lighter than steel (bad for weight value).
- BUT Aluminum is worth more per pound (good for scrap value). Usually, it balances out, but mixing metals makes recycling harder.
4. Missing Parts “Deductions”
We quote you based on a “complete” car. If you started taking pieces off, the price drops.
- Missing Battery: -$10
- Missing Aluminum Wheels: -$15 per wheel (Steel wheels are less).
- Missing Radiator: -$20 (Copper/Aluminum content).
- Missing Catalytic Converter: -$200 to -$500 check our Catalytic Converter Guide.
Common Questions
“My car has 4 brand new tires. Does that add value?” Rarely. Unless they are high-end truck tires, used tires are a dime a dozen. It hurts to hear, but $600 of new tires might add $20 to the quote. We suggest you take them off and sell them on Marketplace separately if you have old rims to swap on.
“The tank is full of gas!” We actually have to drain the gas to recycle the car safely. It’s a labor cost for us, not a bonus.
Summary
- Old/Rusted? Price is based on Weight. Damage doesn’t matter.
- Newer/Parts Car? Price is based on Resale Potential. Damage matters.
- Keep it Complete. Don’t pull parts unless you plan to sell them for more than the deduction.
Get your custom quote from {businessInfo.name} today. We ask the right questions to get you the highest tier price possible.